Cleat Installation Instructions
Tools Needed
- 4, 3mm hex keys
- Torque wrench
- Waterproof grease
PREPARATION:
For new shoes that do not come with the base plates installed, install the plates according to the shoe manufacturer's instructions.
STEP 1: GREASE CLEAT BOLTS
Apply a small dab of grease to the threads of each cleat bolt.
STEP 2: POSITION CLEAT SPACER
Cleat spacers are not required for all setups.
Unless the shoe is known to require a spacer, It is recommended to first install the cleat without a spacer.
If a cleat spacer is needed, place it against the bottom of the shoe, bumpy side against the shoe sole, with the square corners oriented towards the toe of the shoe.
STEP 3: PREPARE CLEAT
Place the cleat washer (plate with two holes) into the recessed slot of the cleat just below the "ONE" logo. The side of the washer with the countersink (angled) holes should be facing up.
STEP 4: LOOSELY INSTALL BOLTS
Place the bolts through the cleat washer and screw them into the threaded holes of the shoe base plate. Tighten both bolts until the cleat no longer lifts off the shoe, but loose enough so that the cleat can still slide up and down the sole of the shoe.
STEP 5: POSITION CLEAT
Position the cleat as desired, based on personal preference. Some general setup tips are:
Front-to-back: A good starting point is to mark the ball of your foot on the edge of your shoe, and line the middle of the cleat up with that. This is the optimal position for pedaling comfort and power transfer. However, many mountain bikers prefer to slide the cleats slightly behind the ball of the foot, for better descending stability.
Rotation: Most riders will find it most comfortable to point the toe of the cleat directly forwards, but you can point the toe of the cleat slightly towards your big toe for more of a toe-out pedaling position, or towards your pinky toe for a toe-in pedaling position.
Side-to-side: Start with the cleat in the middle of the cleat channel of the shoe. If you want to widen your stance, move the cleat towards the inside of the shoe. If you want to narrow your stance, move the cleat towards the outside of the shoe. Depending on the shoe, you may not have much room to move the cleat side-to-side, and/or it might start to cause interference between the binding of the pedal and the shoe.
STEP 6: TORQUE CLEAT BOLTS
Tighten the cleat bolts in an alternating pattern, being careful to hold the chosen position, until both bolts are firmly torqued to 5-6Nm.
REPEAT STEPS 1-6 FOR THE SECOND SHOE
STEP 7: FINAL POSITION ADJUSTMENT
Put on the shoes and clip into the pedals (one at a time, or both if you're able to safely stabilize yourself). Readjust the cleats as needed for comfort and shoe/pedal compatibility.
NOTE: If you can't clip into your pedals, and/or it feels extremely tight when clipped in (even at minimum tension), try installing a cleat spacer.
STEP 8: BINDING TENSION ADJUSTMENT
Note: The pedals come with the binding set to the lightest tension and can be ridden without adjustment.
Tension Adjustment: Using a 3mm hex key, turn the binding tension screw counterclockwise until it stops clicking, or the binding tension nut contacts the rear binding. Turn it back clockwise until you feel a click & the binding tension nut no longer contacts the rear binding. This is the lightest tension setting. Using the indicator lines on the rear binding as a reference, turn the binding tension screw clockwise to your preferred tension setting.
Ensure both pedals are set to an equal tension.
Congratulations, you have now successfully set up your shoe cleats.
NOW GO FOR A TEST RIDE!
It is recommended to do a shorter test ride to assess your shoe positioning and binding tension.
If you are having any problems please first double-check that you have correctly completed each of the above steps.
If you are still having trouble please email us at support@oneupcomponents.com for help. Please include a detailed description of your issue. Photos are often helpful.
Thanks,
